Abstract This paper describes wave prediction results for Patos Lagoon's northern sector through numerical modeling using Delft3D software. ERA-Interim satellite reanalysis data of wind intensity and direction were used as inputs to force the hydrodynamic model. For SWAN calibration and validation in the study region, wave parameters were used. These parameters were acquired in situ by a directional waverider buoy. Statistical data showed the good performance of the model, albeit with a tendency to overestimate significant wave height and underestimate peak period and propagation direction. Once validated, wave parameters for five points at different depths were obtained during the four seasons of the year between 2017 and 2018. In general, it was observed that the largest ripples come from the S and SSW directions and occurred during spring at the deepest point under wind conditions exceeding 10 m s-1. Ripples up to 0.30 m account for 77.9 % at the shallowest point and 65.7 % at the deepest point. Thus, the study area was classified as low energy and characterized by small, high-frequency, short-period ripples strongly influenced and determined by the local depth because larger ripples are always observed in the deepest locations, giving the lagoon a characteristic of depth-limited ripples. The results obtained here have the potential to contribute to territorial management of the region, with emphasis on the Integral Protection Conservation Unit located in the study area (Itapuã State Park) and on the development and safety of the important, heavily used navigation route that connects Rio Grande Port to the state capital, Porto Alegre.

RESUMO A caraterização do clima de ondas em ambientes costeiros representa fundamental importância para profissionais da oceanografia e da engenharia oceânica no que diz respeito a obras de proteção litorânea. Desta forma, este estudo tem por objetivo determinar os parâmetros de ondas (alturas significativas, períodos de pico e direções de pico) mais frequentes na Lagoa dos Patos durante o período de operação de um ondógrafo direcional (27/01/2015 a 30/06/2015). Fundeado a aproximadamente 14 km da costa de São Lourenço do Sul, no ponto de coordenadas 31º29’06”S e 51º55’07” W, com profundidade local de seis metros, o equipamento registrou séries temporais de alturas significativas, períodos de pico e direções de pico das ondas. Durante o período analisado, as maiores frequências de ondas corresponderam a curtos períodos (entre 2 e 3,5 segundos) e a pequenos valores de alturas significativas (até 0,6 metros), com direções de pico provenientes de leste. As maiores ocorrências de ondas corresponderam às direções de pico provenientes de leste (33,3%), aos períodos de pico entre 2,5 e 3 segundos (25,6%) e entre 3 e 3,5 segundos (22,1%), e às alturas significativas de até 0,3 metros (41,2%) e de 0,3 a 0,6 metros (38%). Esta pesquisa produziu resultados inéditos para a Lagoa dos Patos, descrevendo detalhadamente os parâmetros de ondas mais ocorrentes durante o período analisado, formando uma base consistente a diversos outros estudos que ainda poderão ser realizados pela comunidade científica.

ABSTRACT The wave climate characterization in coastal environments is essentially important to oceanography and coastal engineering professionals regarding coastal protection works. Thus, this study aims to determine the most frequent wave parameters (significant wave height, peak period and peak direction) in Patos Lagoon during the period of operation of a directional waverider buoy (from 01/27/2015 to 06/30/2015). The equipment was moored at approximately 14 km from the São Lourenço do Sul coast at the geographic coordinates of 31º29’06” S and 51º55’07” W, with local depth of six meters, registering significant wave height, peak period and peak direction time series. During the analyzed period, the greatest wave frequencies corresponded to short periods (between 2 and 3.5 seconds) and small values of significant wave heights (up to 0.6 meters), with east peak wave directions. The largest wave occurrences corresponded to east peak wave directions (33.3%); peak wave periods between 2.5 and 3 seconds (25.6%) and between 3 and 3.5 seconds (22.1%); and to significant wave heights of up to 0.3 meters (41.2%) and from 0.3 to 0.6 meters (38%). This research yielded unprecedented findings to Patos Lagoon by describing in detail the most occurring wave parameters during the analyzed period, establishing a consistent basis for several other studies that might still be conducted by the scientific community.